Wave run-up on random and deterministic beaches

Series: 
Math Physics Seminar
Monday, April 16, 2012 - 12:00
1 hour (actually 50 minutes)
Location: 
Skiles 006
,  
CNRS/Univ. of Savoie
Organizer: 
The phenomenon of wave run-up has the capital importance for the beach erosion, coastal protection and flood hazard estimation. In the present talk we will discuss two particular aspects of the wave run-up problem. In this talk we focus on the wave run-up phenomena on a sloping beach. In the first part of the talk we present a simple stochastic model of the bottom roughness. Then, we quantify the roughness effect onto the maximal run-up height using Monte-Carlo simulations. A critical comparison with more conventional approaches is also performed.In the second part of the talk we study the run-up of simple wave groups on beaches of various geometries. Some resonant amplification phenomena are unveiled. The maximal run-up height in resonant cases can be 20 times higher than in regular situations. Thus, this work can provide a possible mechanism of extreme tsunami run-up conventionally ascribed to "local site effects".References:Dutykh, D., Labart, C., & Mitsotakis, D. (2011). Long wave run-up on random beaches. Phys. Rev. Lett, 107, 184504.Stefanakis, T., Dias, F., & Dutykh, D. (2011). Local Runup Amplification by Resonant Wave Interactions. Phys. Rev. Lett., 107, 124502.